Rigging a 2″ line without a ratchet.
I’ve had a couple of requests for a “howto” on rigging a two-inch line, sans ratchet, so here it is. Basically we’re just line-locking in a short piece of one-inch webbing (usually about 10ft will do it) and then making a primitive system with it. So if you already know how to do a primitive, all you’ll need to learn/acquire will be one or two 2″ ID rings like these from Madrock, and matching pear-shaped ‘biners.
Hi,
I have a Question to your video: Rigging a 2″ line without a ratchet
Are these Alu-carabines you re using? (the orange one`s)
Because allready a few Slackliners in our Community in Berlin, told me that i shouldn t use Alu-carabines for Slackling cuz they can break.
I want to bouild the same System as yours but it has to work also on a line up to 40-50m. Is is allright to use Alu-carabines for such a long line too?
Ah before i forgot, your/this site is really helbfull. I m really thankful for you to create such a nice site. I could find many things without searching for hours over the net.
(Sy for my crappy english. It needs much polishing.)
Best ragards from Germany/Berlin
Answer: Aluminum carabiners are totally safe on short lines, but anything over 30-40m (so if you use pulleys) I would be careful and probably use steel. For a 100m line I usually have about 10-12Kn of static tension, and most aluminum carabiners are only rated for 18-25Kn… not enough margin to make me feel safe!
Hi
Awesome site – keep it coming!
With this technique you are essentially joining two pieces of webbing in a line locker no?.
I am new to slacklining and so far only have 2 lengths of 10m of 1″ webbing. I have been using one length for the line and the other for the 3:1 primitive system but fastening the system to the karabiner at the end of the line with a loop made with a water knot. This then means the karabiner at the end of the line has tape passing through it three times. While this results in a double locking system (if the water knotted loop is laid over the top of the usual locking system) it is a bit of a faff.
So my question is; can I safely join the two lengths of 1″ webbing in the line locker like you have done here and dispense with the water knotted loop?
EDIT: You are correct, this is just friction to join 2 pieces together. It should work fine for two 1″ pieces.
I can’t find the 2″ rings anywhere, they’re not on Madrock’s website anymore. Any suggestions?
Answer: try here?
Just found these http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=708
2-1/2″ Interior Diameter
3-1/4″ Overall Diameter
Drop Forged Steel
Weight: 4.5oz (127gm)
100% proof loaded to 3,600 lbs (16kN)
Min tensile strength 5,000 lbs (22.2kN)
$9.95 a piece.
What do you think?
ANSWER:
I haven’t used those, but I think they would work. Pensafe builds decent forged rings (I have a couple of their smaller rings). If you start to get fraying in your webbing, this means you should sleeve it (put it within a short 2″ tubular piece of webbing where it passes the locker) and perhaps double up the line locker rings.
So, put the 2″ line inside of another 2″ tubular line for the bulk of the bight used to create the lock?
ANSWER: yeah, for the best chance at not fraying/windowing your line, I would do that. Sleeves and double-rings seem to be the best protection.